One minute you're grinning from ear to ear with a new babe in arms and the next minute you're sewing a suit for his Year 10 Graduation ....
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| 1994 - and I made that dressing gown!!! |
Pattern: Burda 8186
Sizing: From direct measurements he was a 36 only for the waist, and 34 for everything else. I cut a 36 for the pants and a 34 for the vest and jacket. I did a tissue fit and added 5cm in length for the sleeves of the jacket. The pants were a bit tight at the waist so I had to take off the waist band and take out side seams and CB seam - add a little extension to the waist band at CB - and all was good elsewhere.
Fabric: Vest fabric from Tessuti's Sydney - textured polyester - lined with Habotai Silk from Gorgeous Fabrics. Pants and Jacket fabric wool plus Lycra from The Fabric Store Sydney - very fine and lightweight - in hindsight I would have preferred a wool without the Lycra - I think that the Lycra limited the pressing and steaming qualities that wool has on it's own. For the jacket I block fused the following pieces:
- Front
- Side Front
- Front Facing
- Back Neck Facing
- Under Collar
- Collar stand
- Top Collar Pocket welts and flaps
- I also fused interfacing on the hem allowance of the the back, side back and sleeve.
I cut the under collar on the bias ( not suggested by the pattern) and it all fitted very well.
Jacket was lined with Silk Satin.
Instructions: The instructions are very brief - but adequate if you've made a jacket previously.
Some details:
This is a bobbin case for my Bernina machine - the hole in the finger is for the bobbin thread when you're sewing buttonholes.
Corded buttonholes - the cord (Perle 8 Crochet Cotton) is placed at the back of the foot and then travels under the foot to be secured at the front of the foot while the machine stitches over the top of it.
Then you need to pull through the threads and tie off before snipping.
I used this shiny thread on top.
Preparation for welt pockets:
Key hole Buttonholes on jacket:
I used 2 strands of Rasant thread and a size 100 needle.
And no, I didn't make the shirt or the tie! This was a time consuming and high stakes project to tackle, but I enjoyed it very much because it was an important project for an important person!!! I think it's a very good pattern - each items fits well - and I'm glad I added that extra length to the jacket sleeves.
Time now for a little observation of the changing seasons ....
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