Showing posts with label Dress. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dress. Show all posts

Thursday, January 3, 2013

The final bits of 2012 .....

 Hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Years .... Here are a couple of things that rounded off 2012 at Handmade Sewing Studio ....


One of my students, Alison, made a trio of gifts .... super cute boxer shorts and she also appliquéd a matching motif on some purchased tank tops - I'm sure they were gratefully received.

There were some new babies popping up around here, well not right here, but in the general vicinity .... and they required some of these ...... embroidery done at work on the Janome embroidery machine ....

And finally, I made this dress for the Christmas festivities, I've had this fabric for quite a while..... it was an odd sized piece, and it took quite some playing around to get that large motif in the right place - self drafted pattern, elastic casing for the waist - really easy.

So, are you all busily sewing .... or ..... daydreaming like I am? Hope to get back into it all soon! Happy 2013!

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

High Tea with a Citrus Flavour

Today I submitted my dress for the TAFE course I have been studying this year. The brief was "High Tea with a Citrus Flavour" ....






The dress is fully lined. Black and white fabric leftover from another dress I made - but originally from Frou Frou in Melbourne, Lime Linen from Chic Fabrique.

Pattern made by me! It was a huge project, not just the pattern making and sewing side, but ALL of the OTHER STUFF they require!! It has certainly been a fantastic learning experience ...... one more project to go!!! Thanks once again to my lovely House Model!!

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

My Tessuti Entry

Well, hello there!! I haven't blogged for ages .... I'm not going to bore you with details, just super busy.  Here is the dress I made for the 2012 Tessuti Dress Award, this year the theme is "Spots and Stripes."





Fabric is 100% Silk Gorgette - Red River Salt, with some Black Rayon for the contrast and Spot Tulle in the skirt and sleeve caps.  Pattern designed and drafted by ME!!! Yes, ME! Garment is self lined and constructed with French Seams throughout ..... many, many teeny tiny French Seams, and there is satin bias binding finishing where a teeny tiny French Seam was not appropriate. You may have noticed by now that it's not me in the photos!!! Ah yes, I've gone to great expense to recruit a lovely Size 10 - and isn't she great?!!!

So, if you've got a spare minute up your puffy sleeve, head on over, check out all the lovely entries,  and vote for my dress in the People's Choice Awards - ta!! Voting ends 10th OCTOBER, 2012

Monday, March 12, 2012

Another Burda 104 5/08 and Heidi's Giveaway ....

This time ...... no facing, no lining, added a red stretch binding to the V Neck, added sleeves from my Style Arc Laura Dress Pattern.  Too easy!

Looks kinda frumpy in the photos, but it didn't feel frumpy .... or maybe I'm just kidding myself ...... this blogging stuff really makes you paranoid!!! ..... have a great week!

ETA...... well, I just found that the lovely Heidi is giving away a copy of her new book ...... head on over to enter ....... I hope she has a section on reducing "frumpiness"!!

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Burda Dress 104 5/08

 I'm probably the last person in the universe to get around to this dress pattern. 2008!! Anyway, this dress gets the thumbs up on Pattern Review, and from me too .....
 A stretch knit dress with a front detail secured by a buckle.
 I used a Martin & Savage fabric, 95% polyester & 5% lycra - super soft, it never ceases to amaze me how synthetic fibres can be made to feel "non synthetic" - this fabric is a perfect example. I lined the dress with a knit lining - very lightweight. The dress has a fairly full front and back neck facing - so it was very easy to cut a lining and attach it to the bottom of the facing. I made size 38 - no adjustments except for about 5cm extra in length - as a few others did too.
 I left out the zipper, as did the rest of the sewing world. Just a note on using a twin needle on knits - always lower the top and bobbin tension - the stitch on the left is normal tension and the one on the right has lowered tension. It makes that ridge disappear.

And so .... an update on my TAFE adventure thus far ..... having spent 4 hours finishing my drawing homework today, I'm probably not in the best frame of mind to give an accurate report .....we've been doing those technical drawings of flat garment and garment components- Front and Back views  - like the line drawings above .... but by hand!!! We move on to computer drawings later, but I guess we have to start with an appreciation of how they must be drawn .... very tedious indeed!
 
Apart from that, all is good!! The purple book above is our main text - Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women. We've used direct measurments to draw the Easy Fit Jersey Bodice Block and Sleeve, and last week we adapted it to a Magyar Block and we cut out some knit wintery fabric (it was a 35 degree day - phew!!), so that's all interesting and quite straight forward - you can even use all of your own direct measurements to get a customised fit - so I'm sure I'll have a go at that myself if we don't do it in class.

On the sewing front, we use a machine similar to the one pictured - a Siruba - fast, automatic back tack, automatically trims the thread and raises the presser foot when you're finished, even though it's fast, it's easy to go very slow as well, so not scary at all! I've made two basic tote bags, done basic machine samples, and we made a Child's Size 8 pair of boxer shorts with a patch pocket and in seam pockets. Next week we can modify the pattern to our own design and bring in our own fabric to make some cute Peter Alexander style boxers (for my teenage daughter) - so that will be fun.

Everything we do, has to be accurate - we work off Specification sheets - so all the measurements and seam allowances have to be spot on - otherwise it won't pass the Quality Check!!!

In the Pattern Modification class, we've done some samples of adding yokes, gathering and pleats to a basic bodice block - the interesting thing here is that designers obtain their fabric FIRST, then pattern make from that point ... because the patterns have to reflect the nature of the fabric eg. gathers in different weights of fabric require differing amounts of "extra" fabric to achieve the desired gathered look!

We've also adapted a bodice block for a scoop neck and facing - making the adjustment for a gape dart. So there you have it..... and a big thanks to all those who left encouraging comments on my last post .... I am very lucky to have the opportunity to dive deeper into an area that I love! So onward and upward and I hope your week is fruitful!

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Vogue 1220 and our Soiree

Here is Vogue 1220 - A Donna Karan design in Martin & Savage's KUDOS fabric - 55% Linen, 28% Polyester, 15% Viscose and 2 % Spandex. - hope you're impressed with all that accuracy!



I made a straight Size 12. The fabric estimate requires 2.6m of 150cm wide fabric - I only had 2.25metres of 130cm wide fabric - so I squeezed every last drop out of this  - and I had to cut the belt short and put a join in, and I also had to put a join in the placket. I didn't cut the bias strip for the back neckline raw edge - I just used some satin bias binding. I fused interfacing to the hem facings - glad I did - provides far better structure. I raised the placket positioning about 5 cm higher than suggested so that the neckline wasn't too deep. I also interfaced the inside facing to support the buttons, and I think I should have also interfaced the whole front facing section and also slip stitched it in place as I found it popping out every now and again - I can still do that.

Great design, interesting lines and shape - shame my fabric creased so much - but that's linen! or should I say 55% linen!

Here are a few snaps of our Handmade Sewing Studio's End of Year Celebration at Cozzies Cafe Swansea - lovely night - some raffles and tissue pattern flower decorations .... thanks everyone for coming - fantastic company and great food!



Sunday, November 27, 2011

Colette's Peony Dress .... when you're in a hurry

Hindsight .. always a good thing! Well, I should have toiled this one first - live and learn!! It's Christmas Party season so to kick start the season of good will and peace, I made this Colette Peony Dress.

I realise that I don't quite make the Colette demographic, but I am smitten with their designs, and I thought this was a sweet little dress.

Fabric: A stretch cotton sateen from The Remnant Warehouse, Sydney - purchased on the recent PR Weekend. Lovely to work with and lovely to wear!
Size: Well, the photo below shows where my measurements landed on their size chart - very interesting as you'll soon see. So I went for the Size 10.


General Notes:
We're all familiar with Multi Sized Patterns - they have their advantages and disadvantages, but I must say, that it can become mighty difficult to follow your size line at times (amongst a total of 10 sizes!) - this of course is not limited to just Colette Patterns - but probably worth mentioning.
I would also like to see Colette add Metric units to their patterns - their lovely new book has both imperial and metric - so that's great! Sewing instructions were very good, beautiful in fact - great diagrams and everything is clearly described - with lots of links for more information, eg. putting in an invisible zip. I added black satin piping to the neckline and the belt. What's better than pre made bias binding? Well, pre made satin piping!

I used my new Piping Foot to attach the piping - very easy - just position the piping under the groove in the foot and move your needle position - too easy!

So, back to the fit ... yes, I should have made a toile, but when one is in hurry ..... ok, so here I'm at the stage of putting in the zip, up to this point, I had been quickly sizing the finished front bodice on me - looked OK .... on the dummy.... uh oh ..... I had heaps and heaps of fabric on the CB to take in ... of course I should have considered this before the sleeves went in .... but I didn't so I just cut off the excess from the CB seam and inserted the invisible zip. This in turn distorted the boat neckline. So now it doesn't sit very well. The interesting bit is that the front bodice looks a tad small in the following photos ... so if I'd have gone up a size - the back would have been huge. Now, go back to that measurement chart - my bust and waist was smaller than the 10 - very interesting. I'm not sure if I'll make this again - probably not - I mean, it's sweet, but I have other fish to fry if you know what I mean.....
About 8cm had to be trimmed off the CB seam.

Anyway, so here I am at Christmas Party No 1.

I just realised that not only did I not toile this, but I didn't even look up PR for any reviews ..... I love it when I learn things!!  Happy Sunday everyone!

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Vogue 2962 - using Crinoline / Horsehair Braid

Our local Public school is having a fundraiser market night and I've decided to have a stall to advertise my classes and maybe sell a few patterns and bits and pieces. I thought it would be good to have a special "wow" type garment on one of my dressmaker's mannequins to attract attention. So I decided on Vogue 2962 in navy stretch sateen with a spot or two - fabric from Spotlight (get it??). Anyway, I wanted a really full dramatic skirt and I've been reading about using horsehair braid (Crinoline Tape / Stabiliser) in the hem.

Before Crinoline in Hem
After crinoline in hem

Don't you love those waistlines???

Sewing Crin to the hem on the right side - this tape is 54mm wide

Turn the hem under - pull the little threads at the top of the tape to ease in fullness.

Pin on the right side to stitch

See the little loop pulling the braid tight?




While I was quite impressed with the fullness and definition the tape gave the hem, I think I will have to make a tulle petticoat to add extra fluff. This is an easy straight forward pattern - it's just BIG - heavy - bulky - the hem circumference was 5.35 metres - phew!!

 Check out Gertie explaining this technique here.