Butterick 5415

Introducing .... one of my lovely students, Anne wearing her recently completed B5415.

She was a tad reluctant to be photographed, but peer group pressure gave her some encouragement. We had quite a few fitting issues with this little dress .... Anne has narrow shoulders so we did some gape darts around the neckline and also tightened the shoulder seam. The fabric is a knit, and we decided to omit the back zipper, and placed the Back pattern on the fold, but it still required further adjustments so we had to put in a centre back seam. All in all, teamed with the perfect green contrasting trim - the result is ..... SMASHING! Great work Anne! and thanks for being brave for Blogland!

Burda Dress 104 5/08

 I'm probably the last person in the universe to get around to this dress pattern. 2008!! Anyway, this dress gets the thumbs up on Pattern Review, and from me too .....

 A stretch knit dress with a front detail secured by a buckle.

 I used a Martin & Savage fabric, 95% polyester & 5% lycra - super soft, it never ceases to amaze me how synthetic fibres can be made to feel "non synthetic" - this fabric is a perfect example. I lined the dress with a knit lining - very lightweight. The dress has a fairly full front and back neck facing - so it was very easy to cut a lining and attach it to the bottom of the facing. I made size 38 - no adjustments except for about 5cm extra in length - as a few others did too.

 I left out the zipper, as did the rest of the sewing world. Just a note on using a twin needle on knits - always lower the top and bobbin tension - the stitch on the left is normal tension and the one on the right has lowered tension. It makes that ridge disappear.

And so .... an update on my TAFE adventure thus far ..... having spent 4 hours finishing my drawing homework today, I'm probably not in the best frame of mind to give an accurate report .....we've been doing those technical drawings of flat garment and garment components- Front and Back views  - like the line drawings above .... but by hand!!! We move on to computer drawings later, but I guess we have to start with an appreciation of how they must be drawn .... very tedious indeed!
 

Apart from that, all is good!! The purple book above is our main text - Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women. We've used direct measurments to draw the Easy Fit Jersey Bodice Block and Sleeve, and last week we adapted it to a Magyar Block and we cut out some knit wintery fabric (it was a 35 degree day - phew!!), so that's all interesting and quite straight forward - you can even use all of your own direct measurements to get a customised fit - so I'm sure I'll have a go at that myself if we don't do it in class.

On the sewing front, we use a machine similar to the one pictured - a Siruba - fast, automatic back tack, automatically trims the thread and raises the presser foot when you're finished, even though it's fast, it's easy to go very slow as well, so not scary at all! I've made two basic tote bags, done basic machine samples, and we made a Child's Size 8 pair of boxer shorts with a patch pocket and in seam pockets. Next week we can modify the pattern to our own design and bring in our own fabric to make some cute Peter Alexander style boxers (for my teenage daughter) - so that will be fun.

Everything we do, has to be accurate - we work off Specification sheets - so all the measurements and seam allowances have to be spot on - otherwise it won't pass the Quality Check!!!

In the Pattern Modification class, we've done some samples of adding yokes, gathering and pleats to a basic bodice block - the interesting thing here is that designers obtain their fabric FIRST, then pattern make from that point ... because the patterns have to reflect the nature of the fabric eg. gathers in different weights of fabric require differing amounts of "extra" fabric to achieve the desired gathered look!

We've also adapted a bodice block for a scoop neck and facing - making the adjustment for a gape dart. So there you have it..... and a big thanks to all those who left encouraging comments on my last post .... I am very lucky to have the opportunity to dive deeper into an area that I love! So onward and upward and I hope your week is fruitful!

Style Arc Kate Dress

Continuing on my wave of Style Arc Patterns, here is my Kate Dress. Tempted to make it in 'Royal Blue" but decided instead on a very nice Art Nouveaux Print from Gorgeous Fabrics. It is a fine and lightweight jersey. I made a Size 12 - my previous Style Arc's were size 10 - but since wearing the jacket a few times - I decided to go up one size - just a little too snug under the arms. This Size 12 fits great.

Very straight forward to sew. There are a few curiosities with these patterns - possibly stemming from their Industry background. Anyway, they suggest using  a stretch thread - I interpreted that to mean woolly nylon - which I often use in the bobbin - I've never used it as the top thread .... not sure if that's what they mean. They also recommend to use Vilene Tearaway to stabilise the neck and front edges - and then the remove the tearaway at the end - that's foreign to me - I just used some lovely soft Hansel fusing that I was recently able to get my hands on. So it was fused on - and left there. I also used strips of Hansel to stabilise the edges for turning under - front edges, hem edges and sleeve hems - worked a treat.  As I write this post, I just got a reply from Chloe at Style Arc about the Tearaway.... here it is: "We use vilene tearaway sta's because it saves one process in fusing the required area and the machinist is able to sew the seam to the exact measurement - then tear it away when the garment is completed." I must say that Chloe and the team at Style Arc are very responsive and reply to emails very promptly, they are happy to receive feedback!

I think there is less fullness on this dress than shows in their diagram - you could easily add fullness but cutting and spreading the pattern piece. But again, Chloe form Style Arc replied that they will alter the diagram to reflect the less fullness. But, I still really like this dress - the fit, the style, and the I didn't have that uncomfortable feeling about worrying about the neckline gaping or the front wrap unwrapping!

Hansel Fusing - Super Soft and light - it has a slight stretch as well.

Fused Hansel to the edges.

Hansel Strips applied to hem edges & overlocked.

Oh don't hurt me Big Louis!!

And yes, there will be more Style Arc appearing soon - I'm doing the Laura Jacket at the moment.

Vogue 1061 Tunic / Jacket

Ahh, I needed this! After the marathon of the tailored jacket it was an absolute pleasure to sew up a quick project. One of my students made this recently and she lent me her pattern. We added about 5.5cm in length to each body piece. Photographed on location at my tap class this morning - thanks Miss Cherin!

Fabric is again from Martin & Savage - called Diagonal Knit - it is Poly / Rayon and Lycra - quite lightweight - yet warm - perfect for the current cold snap we are experiencing. The pants in this pattern look interesting too.  Well, I'd better practice my new steps .... knock heel toe heel dig ball change heel heel .......

Tessuti's Fave Top

A little while ago I made the "Our Fave Top" by Tessuti's Fabrics. I used a most lovely knit purchased whilst doing a Palmer Pletsch Workshop at Martin and Savage Fabrics last November. The fabric is a Rayon / Polyester blend with great drape and texture. Up until today, we have been experiencing very warm weather so I haven't felt like putting anything on with a sleeve, so my photos are on this lovely lady ....

The pattern is very easy. I added about 9cm to the overall hem - and I added a little width to the sleeve - where it tapered to fit snugly to forearm.
I shamelessly did not bother match the pattern at the side seam. I was concerned that the boat neck edge might be too wide or too deep at the back - but it wasn't! It drapes beautifully from a nicely fitting neck area.
This is a great pattern for the right fabric - something soft and drapey ... a great mid season staple!