Finished: Style Arc Sara Jacket

Oh joy oh joy! This is one project I am super happy to have finally finished!! My Sara Jacket made following Sherry's wonderful Ready To Wear Tailoring Sew Along.

This is my first Style Arc pattern and their instructions are sparse. If it wasn't for Sherry's expertise I would have struggled big time by trying to decipher the industry speak in the instructions. There are no diagrams in their instructions - they are basically an order of work.

The fabric was a Martin & Savage "Monaro" mostly polyester, 40% wool and a little spandex. I should have gone for a 100% wool, there are tiny press marks and indentations from the polyester component.
 The pattern is beautifully drafted - I did add about 1cm on most seams around the bodice (I had a Size 10 pattern) - tapering to nothing on the upper bodice. The many notches are really helpful and I have fallen in love with hem notches! I love the block fusing and fusing the hems - the jacket really feels like a proper one!!

I love my lining - shimmer rayon purchased at the recent ASG Industry Day.

I'm very happy with my welt / jet pockets. The breast pocket was done following the Reader's Digest book - and it isn't fantastic - I couldn't follow the pattern instructions and they weren't part of Sherry's instructions - but something to master in the future. I did 2 bound buttonholes - Sherry has a separate tutorial for them. And even though I did quite a few practice ones, on my jacket one was good the other quite disastrous - the little welts were a tad too short and I had trouble poking them back through after slashing the opening, so had to do a re-apply and oh well - live and learn!!

Overall, it was a long but rewarding project. I can highly recommend Sherry's Sew A Long - she is thorough and her tips and techniques were wonderful. The only hand sewing is sewing on the buttons and the little bit of hand sewing on the facing of the bound buttonholes. I am now in need of a quicker project, however, I know that I really really should make a another jacket to reinforce all of the skills from this project. Sherry made her coat in about 3 hours ...!!!! Mine - well, much much longer than that, but I feel that I have learnt so much that I could cut that time down considerably now that it's all in perspective!!! Well, I guess you should watch this space to see if I do as I should!!

Sara Jacket Progressing .....

I'm progressing along with my Sara Jacket ..... here is my lining - it's rayon - I think it's called Shimmer Rayon - for reasons that are self evident. Still need to attach the sleeves.

 A couple of notes about Sherry's wisdom in this sew a long..... Seam Allowances - my pattern (Style Arc Sara Jacket)  has 1cm seam allowances and 6mm seam allowances around the neckline and around pocket pieces. Yes! The narrower allowance does make sewing much easier - she explains it all here.

The great thing about the Sara Jacket is that because it is "industry based" all of the pattern amendments that Sherry recommends have already been done - like the mitred corner on the sleeve cuff ....

 And the "steps" at the ends of some seams .....

 And I have found my new Sleeve Board absolutely fabulous ...

 Here is one of my pockets - flap and jet - hoping the other one works out as well!!! Her instructions and photographs are just perfect!

 Block fusing is the other fabulous part - here is the fusing I have used and the body and handle it gives the fabric is just wonderful!!

Anyway, you can probably see that I'm enjoying this project very much and I totally appreciate how much effort Sherry has put into it ...... just before I go, you have a little more time to get your entry in to win a Sara Jacket Pattern - leave a comment here ..... it is a Size 10.

RTW Jacket - Style Arc Sara Jacket Toile

So I ditched the original Burda Coat pattern that I started for this Sew A Long - Sherry was right - it is a coat meant for a European winter - so my idea of just shortening it wasn't going to cut it - no matter which size I chose.  So I purchased a Sara Jacket from Style Arc and made a toile - Size 10.

 I think it is a huge improvement! But still a little snug - especially across the back.

 There are some problem areas at the armhole near where the side panel seam meets the sleeve - it is a bit bunchy - so will have to try something to fix it ... I will also have to add a little extra at each seam - mainly at the back to prevent that pulling at my waist.

So back to the table I go!!  And if you'd like to win your very own Sara Jacket Pattern (Size 10) leave a comment here.

Ready to Wear Tailoring Sew - A - Long Part 1

I've joined up with Sherry's RTW Tailoring Sew- A - Long. She has put so much effort into this so far, I'm lagging behind, but, will catch up eventually.

Step 1: Choose Pattern: BWOF 12/2009 Coat 126 - Except I probably don't need a long coat - so I'll make it a shorter version.

 Step 2: Choose Fabric: Good 'ole exciting BLACK!!!!!

 Step 3: Make Toile
So I traced a size 42 - according to my bust measurement. Needless to say, there will be some adjustments to this pattern.......

At this stage, these are my plans to refine the illfit of this jacket:

1. Adjust for forward shoulder.
2. Shape in all side seams to give a slightly less "boxy look" - just give more shape definition at the waist.
3. Now, I don't have shoulder pads at the moment (I can't believe I disposed of all those 80's shoulder pads!!!) - anyway, I still think it is too wide at the shoulders - will trim that back about 1cm.
4. The sleeve - I'd like some advice on this - take in both seams? Reduce the head of the sleeve? Not exactly sure what to do - I have some "fit" books at the ready.