Showing posts with label tailoring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tailoring. Show all posts

Thursday, May 12, 2011

Finished: Style Arc Sara Jacket

Oh joy oh joy! This is one project I am super happy to have finally finished!! My Sara Jacket made following Sherry's wonderful Ready To Wear Tailoring Sew Along.
This is my first Style Arc pattern and their instructions are sparse. If it wasn't for Sherry's expertise I would have struggled big time by trying to decipher the industry speak in the instructions. There are no diagrams in their instructions - they are basically an order of work.
The fabric was a Martin & Savage "Monaro" mostly polyester, 40% wool and a little spandex. I should have gone for a 100% wool, there are tiny press marks and indentations from the polyester component.
 The pattern is beautifully drafted - I did add about 1cm on most seams around the bodice (I had a Size 10 pattern) - tapering to nothing on the upper bodice. The many notches are really helpful and I have fallen in love with hem notches! I love the block fusing and fusing the hems - the jacket really feels like a proper one!!
I love my lining - shimmer rayon purchased at the recent ASG Industry Day.
I'm very happy with my welt / jet pockets. The breast pocket was done following the Reader's Digest book - and it isn't fantastic - I couldn't follow the pattern instructions and they weren't part of Sherry's instructions - but something to master in the future. I did 2 bound buttonholes - Sherry has a separate tutorial for them. And even though I did quite a few practice ones, on my jacket one was good the other quite disastrous - the little welts were a tad too short and I had trouble poking them back through after slashing the opening, so had to do a re-apply and oh well - live and learn!!
Overall, it was a long but rewarding project. I can highly recommend Sherry's Sew A Long - she is thorough and her tips and techniques were wonderful. The only hand sewing is sewing on the buttons and the little bit of hand sewing on the facing of the bound buttonholes. I am now in need of a quicker project, however, I know that I really really should make a another jacket to reinforce all of the skills from this project. Sherry made her coat in about 3 hours ...!!!! Mine - well, much much longer than that, but I feel that I have learnt so much that I could cut that time down considerably now that it's all in perspective!!! Well, I guess you should watch this space to see if I do as I should!!

Friday, April 29, 2011

Sara Jacket Progressing .....

I'm progressing along with my Sara Jacket ..... here is my lining - it's rayon - I think it's called Shimmer Rayon - for reasons that are self evident. Still need to attach the sleeves.


 A couple of notes about Sherry's wisdom in this sew a long..... Seam Allowances - my pattern (Style Arc Sara Jacket)  has 1cm seam allowances and 6mm seam allowances around the neckline and around pocket pieces. Yes! The narrower allowance does make sewing much easier - she explains it all here.

The great thing about the Sara Jacket is that because it is "industry based" all of the pattern amendments that Sherry recommends have already been done - like the mitred corner on the sleeve cuff ....

 And the "steps" at the ends of some seams .....
 And I have found my new Sleeve Board absolutely fabulous ...
 Here is one of my pockets - flap and jet - hoping the other one works out as well!!! Her instructions and photographs are just perfect!
 Block fusing is the other fabulous part - here is the fusing I have used and the body and handle it gives the fabric is just wonderful!!

Anyway, you can probably see that I'm enjoying this project very much and I totally appreciate how much effort Sherry has put into it ...... just before I go, you have a little more time to get your entry in to win a Sara Jacket Pattern - leave a comment here ..... it is a Size 10.