My Tessuti Entry

Well, hello there!! I haven't blogged for ages .... I'm not going to bore you with details, just super busy.  Here is the dress I made for the 2012 Tessuti Dress Award, this year the theme is "Spots and Stripes."

Fabric is 100% Silk Gorgette - Red River Salt, with some Black Rayon for the contrast and Spot Tulle in the skirt and sleeve caps.  Pattern designed and drafted by ME!!! Yes, ME! Garment is self lined and constructed with French Seams throughout ..... many, many teeny tiny French Seams, and there is satin bias binding finishing where a teeny tiny French Seam was not appropriate. You may have noticed by now that it's not me in the photos!!! Ah yes, I've gone to great expense to recruit a lovely Size 10 - and isn't she great?!!!

So, if you've got a spare minute up your puffy sleeve, head on over, check out all the lovely entries,  and vote for my dress in the People's Choice Awards - ta!! Voting ends 10th OCTOBER, 2012

Sewing Leather Workshop

Firstly, I know I've got quite a bit of catching up to do .... you've probably been as busy as me, so there's no need to gabble on about excuses ...... Secondly, thanks so much to my merry band of regular comment makers - a small, select group  - but since I've completely slackened off reading blogs and leaving comments, I very much appreciate those of you who do take the time to leave some words of encouragement / suggestions - So THANKS!!!!

Also thanks for all of your comments and suggestions about Photo Sharing options as per my previous post .... I will definitely have to start resizing my photos - which programs do you recommend to do that? I'll also look into the various photo sharing options - I really have no problem paying - it's just that it's a monthly payment, and from what I read there are no refunds, and I just don't know if that goes on for the rest of your life - and what happens when I die??? It's a weird kind of set up .....  I have a Flickr account, but had trouble uploading images from there onto here - the message said that I might have a password or something that is stopping the load - but I don't have privacy restrictions - just the usual login password thingo - ahhh - very confusing!!! Anyway, somehow I managed to add some photos to this post, and I didn't get the error message I got last night - it may be my last!

A while ago now, I did a leather sewing workshop with the ASG on the Central Coast (NSW). Ronda Braybrook was our teacher, and she's quite the know how person when it comes to sewing - she wore a beautiful soft blue leather jacket and she even intentionally left one of the lining seams open so that we could have a sneaky peek inside her jacket - how good is that?? She also had a helper  (who's name I've forgotten - sorry) and she wore a very cool leather jacket as well - so these girls really knew what they were talking about!

After discussing the types of leather and where to buy, we did some samples experimenting with thread and needle types.

And then we made this little wristlet bag - cute hey! I purchased this leather on the Pattern Review shopping weekend in Sydney ..... looking to more adventures with leather.

Photo Storage

As I was preparing a post today, I received a message that my photo storage was full, and that I was required to pay for extra photo storage capacity.  The cost was $2.49 per month ..... reasonable enough, I suppose ...... but for how long? Has anyone else come across this in Blogland? And if we start paying the monthly fee, and continue to publish,  then decide to stop paying ..... does all of our blog work disappear?

I'd be interested in your thoughts and the alternatives ......    I'd insert a photo but ....... oops !!

Pinafores

Recent sewing at TAFE included a Pinafore. They provided a Size 12 pattern, and it did not fit me, so I added a centimetre to the side seams and a centimetre to the seam at the bodice.

I'm not sure what the fabric is, TAFE provided it, but it's a winter weight, possibly acrylic / polyester. I omitted the facings and added a full lining. I'm having lots of trouble uploading photos that have been rotated from Landscape to Portrait - kind of weird ..... so this photo isn't the best.... there are side panels and a front and back bodice - we cut the side panels on the bias, and made sure the stripes lined up at the front and back. Here's a photo with Big Louis - look how much he loves being held and cuddled!!

Anyway, I thought I'd make another one. Fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics. There is an invisible zipper at the back, and we've been taught to insert invisible zips in a different way than we usually do it, that is, don't sew the seam, insert the zip, then sew the seam. Here's what we do ...... Mark a point about 2.5cm up from the end of the zipper tab - when the zipper is undone. That will be the point to which you sew the CB seam, with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

The pin shows the top of the zipper puller, so mark a line 2.5cm above and sew from that point to the hem for the CB seam.

This photo shows the lining pulled up to show the interfacing fused to the neck and armhole area, and a strip of interfacing fused to the wrong side along the CB to support the zip.

This photo shows the CB seam sewn ready for zipper insertion.

The zipper coils are placed 1.5cm from the raw edge, which means the edge of the zipper runs along the edge of the overlocking.

This is the end - and you can sew as far as the beginning of the CB seam, so there's a fair length of zipper tail that is not sewn.

At the junction where the upper bodice and skirt meets, I hand tacked the zipper in place just for a few centimetres. Ready for the other side to be inserted, of course, if there was no junction in your pattern, you would not do this.

Ahhh , not perfect : (

So here's the tail - stitch the ends to the seam allowances of the seam. So the point is, you don't have to change feet back to the regular zipper foot to finish the process, seam done, zipper in!

OK, incredibly frustrating that I can't load these photos properly ..... so tilt your head to the right.........

And I am now sending feedback to Google ...... happy sewing!

Style Arc Jane Over Shirt

Magyar Jumper

And sew it seams that there is nothing better than a Long Wet Weekend to blitz through some sewing.

 Miss 15 requested a Magyar Jumper like the one I made at TAFE earlier.. so a quick email to Rosemary at Chic Fabrique provided me with some great lacey jumper knit fabric - perfect!!

 Do you ever use the Differential Feed on your overlocker? Well, this was a perfect time to change settings to prevent the wobbly edge as shown in the photo below - makes a huge difference.

Differential Feed used on the Left edge and No Differential Feed on the Right edge.

 She didn't want the large cowl neck as the original one had, so I just did a small collar - probably could have done it a bit tighter - or maybe just the open knit structure was never going to pull in the collar ...? In any case she's happy and I'm happy.  A great quick and easy project.

Fashion Short Courses Hunter TAFE

Here is the latest offering of Short Courses at Hunter TAFE - and you only have to be aged 14+ to join in, for more info go to the Hunter TAFE website or phone Donna Harrison on 02 4929 0351 ....

PATTERN MAKING LEVEL 1 (BEGINNER) - 28807

Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9

Date:     Tuesdays 29 May – 19 June 5.30-8.30pm   4 wks

Pattern making is the key to fit and style.  Learn basic pattern making techniques:  how to modify simple garment blocks and produce simple pattern pieces.

Fee:  $275 GST inclusive

FASHION ILLUSTRATION WORKSHOP– 28759                                                            

Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9

Date:    Tuesday 5 June 4pm – 7.30pm

A hands on workshop where you will learn how to draw a fashion figure, sketch a variety of garment designs, use colour and texture techniques to bring your illustrations to life and professionally present your fashion drawings.

Fee:  $50 GST inclusive

SEWING SKILLS LEVEL 2 (INTERMEDIATE) - 28812 Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9 Date:      Wednesdays 29 August – 19 Sept  5.30-8.30pm Can you already operate a sewing machine and make simple garments and items?  Ready for the next step?  This course will help you develop your garment cutting and making skills.  Suitable for those who have completed Sewing Skills Level 1 (Beginner) course. Fee:  $275 GST inclusive

DESIGNING A COLLECTION - 28808

Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9

Date:    to be advised

Ever dreamed of being a Fashion Designer?  Are you a budding Fashion Designer already?  Test the waters of what is involved with putting your first collection together.  Covers the process, skills and knowledge needed to put a fashion collection together including introduction to the design process, target markets and research designing and sketching for a cohesive range and making a mood board.

Fee:  $160 GST inclusive

                                                                                                                                                                                

CREATE A SIMPLE PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT LEVEL 1 - 28818

Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9

Date:    1 Sept

Is your favourite garment worn-out?  It can have a second life!  This course will enable you to make a pattern ready to sew from your favourite simple garment.  Covers basic pattern making:  how to trace and transfer a pattern and test it.

Fee:  $160 GST inclusive

USE ELECTRONIC FASHION DESIGN TOOLS - 28813

Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9

Date:      1 Sept

This course is for learners who have manual pattern making skills and wish to use Style CAD to take them to the next level.  These skills will help you further your business and employability skills.

Fee:  $160 GST inclusive

GARMENT REPAIRS AND ALTERATIONS - 28809

Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9

Date:      Wednesday 12 & 19 September   5.30-8.30pm

Save money, help the environment and rejuvenate your wardrobe!  Learn how to alter and repair garments using a variety of sewing techniques and tips from professionals.  Bring in your own garments to work on.

Fee:  $160 GST inclusive

PATTERN MAKING LEVEL 2 - 28810

Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9

Date:      9-30 Oct

This course is for students who have completed the basic Pattern Making Level 1 course and would like to further their skills.  Also suitable for patternmakers wishing to refresh their skills.  Covers pleats and fullness, simple button opening and collar and zip openings.  You will develop your own skirt or shirt pattern.

Fee:  $275 GST inclusive

Barrel Purse, City Bag and Pattern Making

 Framed purses are so lovely to make. They always look great. This one is tricky, but totally worth it. I made this Barrel Purse for my sister's birthday recently.

 And here is the City Bag by one of my talented students. He adapted the pattern a little, he omitted the zipper, but most amazingly .... he MADE THE BLACK BUCKLE .....

 It's wooden and black and shiny and smooth ....... not sure I like being upstaged!!!!!

 And at TAFE recently we've done quite a bit of skirt patternmaking. This one was drafted to my measurements - very simple tailored straight skirt - great fabric I've had for ages - a stretch canvas from Spotlight I think. The top was also drafted at TAFE. It has an overlay front tie, a few gathers at centre front and shoulder. Jersey Fabric from StandardKnit - purchased on the PR Shopping Day out.

Short Courses at Newcastle TAFE

The Faculty of Creative Industries at Newcastle TAFE are offering a range of great short courses. Here are some in the area of Fashion - there will be more over the year as well.


FASHION ILLUSTRATION WORKSHOP FOR
HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS – 28759
Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9
Date: Tuesday 1 May 4pm – 7.30pm
A hands on workshop for High School Students where you will learn how to draw a fashion figure, sketch a variety of garment designs, use colour and texture techniques to bring your illustrations to life and professionally present your fashion drawings.
Fee: $50 GST inclusive

GARMENT REPAIRS AND ALTERATIONS - 28809
Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9
Date: Wednesday 16 & 23 May 5.30-8.30pm
Save money, help the environment and rejuvenate your wardrobe! Learn how to alter and repair garments using a variety of sewing techniques and tips from professionals. Bring in your own garments to work on.
Fee: $160 GST inclusive

PATTERN MAKING LEVEL 1 (BEGINNER) - 28807 Newcastle Campus (Tighes Hill) Block DD2.9
Date: Tuesdays 29 May – 16 June 5.30-8.30pm Pattern making is the key to fit and style. Learn basic pattern making techniques: how to modify simple garment blocks and produce simple pattern pieces.
Fee: $260 GST inclusive

Enrol online: www.hunter.tafensw.edu.au or Phone (02) 4929 0351 Faculty of Creative Industries Office: 582-608 Hunter Street, Newcastle West NSW 2302 F A C U L T Y O F C R E A T I V E I N D U S T R I E S

Baby Shower

A baby shower .... it's a funny term isn't it .... anyway, there's a new McDonell baby imminent (and it's NOT mine) .... and every new Mum and Dad need a big bag for all that stuff ....

Here is the Beach Bag made into a Nappy Bag ..... featuring Saffron Craig's Parrot Fabric - a gorgeously detailed and pretty print ..... Three big compartment pockets - two on the outside and one in the lining, a zippered gusset closure ..... this is a fabulous bag pattern. Also has 6 cute purse feet on the bottom.

And .... another Dick and Jane Folding Travel Change Mat, pattern from the Clever Miss Nicole Mallalieu.

And the gifts were gratefully received ...... now to just wait and wait and ...........
And I have 4 Beach Bag Patterns left in stock - contact me if you'd like one for the SPECIAL price of $15 AUD and free postage in Australia.

Galaxy Dress @ Rockabilly Riot

Do you remember the Stray Cats? Well, when I was young I actually won their album (vinyl) in a Sunday newspaper contest ..... very exciting .... anyway, fabulous rockin music ...... when I heard that Brian Setzer was bringing his Rockabilly Riot to Newcastle I hot footed to get my tickets.  But ... this is a sewing blog so I'd better talk about the dress first.   Vogue 8280 - the ever famous Roland Mouret"s Galaxy Dress copy  made up in a cotton sateen from Queenstown, NZ.

I cut a 12 in the bodice and tapered to a 14 for the skirt, but I ended up taking the hip excess in - so I could have kept it as a 12. I shortened the bodice darts by 1.5cm, and other than that - it was all systems go. Very straightforward, the bodice is lined which s really nice - and it wouldn't be hard to line the skirt as well, if your fabric required it. So all in all, very happy with the fit - great dress for a great night out.

Here is the legendary Brian Setzer - an awesome talent ...

And I LOVE LOVE LOVE double basses - so to have THREE playing at once was simply AMAZING! The show really was a riot in the end - they were jumping and balancing all over the equipment and they played and played and played - those of you at Byron Bay's Bluesfest should also catch up with this great band.

And with that ..... a Happy Easter to you all!

ASG Industry Day and other ramblings

Creating stand alone flowers.

Lots to catch up on ... firstly the Industry Day yesterday at Niagara Park ... First speaker was Sally Sommer from ZIG ZAG sewing. She spoke about stabilisers for Machine Embroidery. WOW - what a minefield of possibilities!! Sort of glad I'm not into that,  though the work is quite amazing and there are lots of creative possibilities.

Embroidery on jeans.

AMAZING - embroidery on a plastic umbrella.

More stand alone work - started on water soluble stabiliser.

Making little boxes from machine embroidery.

Then a little fabric shopping - Rosemary from Chic Fabrique was there with a lovely selection of fabrics - I went all lacey with blacks and creams ... she really does have the most fabulous fabrics at fantastic prices - if you haven't been there yet ...... what are you waiting for????

Inspired by some lacey pics from our recent Sunday papers .....

Then we heard from Christine who makes bags and purses in an upcycling method - she uses old zips and old everything to create some really sweet looking bags - she sells at markets and on Facebook.

Our last speaker was Nola Sterling from Victoria - this lady was amazing, she must eat, sleep and drink at the sewing machine - she's into machine embroidery, machine felting, making fabric, and a million other things.

Machine Felted but constructed by HAND!

Now, back to some of my sewing. At TAFE we constructed a Magyar knit block pattern from our direct measurements, they gave us the fabric to sew it up.

We also made up this Size 10 Sleeveless Top - fabric from TAFE - or quite possibly from Corporate wear donations ....

Anyway, I thought I'd make it up at home also. I chose this brown cheesecloth with pink embroidered flowers - from The Fabric Store - and if my memory is correct it's a Lisa Ho fabric .... we did a neat way of finishing the armhole edges with bias binding. So, the darts have been sewn, the neck facing has been attached, and before you sew the side seams ...

Take a pice of bias binding and PRESS one folded edge open to form or mould the shape of the armhole edge.

Stitch on to the RS of the fabric - 6mm seam allowance.

Then sew and overlock the side seams together (or apart if you want).

Trim the bulky corner.

Turn the binding to the wrong side and stitch down - I think I should have understitched before this step - we basically understitch everything!!! Anyway, it's a neat an easy way to get those raw edges tucked in!

I also like the way they drafted the back facing to be quite deep at the CB - this allows for the label to be prominently positioned and it looks really neat on the coat hanger - I guess from a retail point of view that's a good consideration - but also good to wear a facing a little deeper. That's the white interfacing you can see.

Anyway, after all that - it didn't fit!!! That fabric stretched and stretched - hmmm.......

So I made another one in a much better fabric - and this behaved beautifully, although it was a leftover from another project, so I couldn't make it any longer - but that's OK. It's a stretch cotton sateen. Worn here with my Clovers from Colette Patterns - yet to blog about them - this was my 2nd attempt - and these are Size 8. Hope to make up another longer pair and yes, hope to blog about them.

Lastly, this little pink number is a toile for a Pattern Modification - adding a yoke and a front inverted pleat, moving and eliminating some darts, drafting the waistband ...... phew ..... learning is exhausting!