Sunday, November 27, 2011

Kwik Sew 3854 Shorts View B and Screen Printing

I've blogged about these shorts previously. I've added about 14cm to the length ...... to best suit my needs!!

They have a nice wide waistband piece that fits nicely. Size: Medium.
My dog thinks the remote is a treat.....
Fabric: a brushed drill - purchased locally - cheap enough to try out these shorts  - but the ghosting isn't great!
Great pattern - fabulous instructions - just a couple of suggestions .....when they suggest to understitch the waistband pieces - start and stop 2cm from the ends - so that the corners turn nicely. The pockets are a little shallow - but they are deep enough for my needs (dog treats and remotes).

No, I didn't make my T Shirt - but I did screen print the little design on it. I just finished a 3 week "Screen Printing on T Shirts" course at Newcastle TAFE. It was a great course - 3 hours on Saturday mornings. We started with Paper Cut stencils - I paper cut this little fellow, then we did some photo emulsion designs. We learnt to make our own silk screen frames, and lots of other printing related ideas. So much fun!

The teacher's sample. 2nd colour applied with a transparency stencil.

The "proper" design students will be selling their designs at Newcastle's next Art Bazaar.
My collage for transferring to a photo emulsion screen - my aim was for detail!!!!

My photo emulsion screen.

The exposure machine for photo emulsion screens.
And finally a few pics ...
Me and Mum

A cheeky galah checking out my photo shoot. As I write this blog I've been listening to Dig Internet Radio - such great music - love it!!

Colette's Peony Dress .... when you're in a hurry

Hindsight .. always a good thing! Well, I should have toiled this one first - live and learn!! It's Christmas Party season so to kick start the season of good will and peace, I made this Colette Peony Dress.

I realise that I don't quite make the Colette demographic, but I am smitten with their designs, and I thought this was a sweet little dress.

Fabric: A stretch cotton sateen from The Remnant Warehouse, Sydney - purchased on the recent PR Weekend. Lovely to work with and lovely to wear!
Size: Well, the photo below shows where my measurements landed on their size chart - very interesting as you'll soon see. So I went for the Size 10.

General Notes:
We're all familiar with Multi Sized Patterns - they have their advantages and disadvantages, but I must say, that it can become mighty difficult to follow your size line at times (amongst a total of 10 sizes!) - this of course is not limited to just Colette Patterns - but probably worth mentioning.
I would also like to see Colette add Metric units to their patterns - their lovely new book has both imperial and metric - so that's great! Sewing instructions were very good, beautiful in fact - great diagrams and everything is clearly described - with lots of links for more information, eg. putting in an invisible zip. I added black satin piping to the neckline and the belt. What's better than pre made bias binding? Well, pre made satin piping!

I used my new Piping Foot to attach the piping - very easy - just position the piping under the groove in the foot and move your needle position - too easy!

So, back to the fit ... yes, I should have made a toile, but when one is in hurry ..... ok, so here I'm at the stage of putting in the zip, up to this point, I had been quickly sizing the finished front bodice on me - looked OK .... on the dummy.... uh oh ..... I had heaps and heaps of fabric on the CB to take in ... of course I should have considered this before the sleeves went in .... but I didn't so I just cut off the excess from the CB seam and inserted the invisible zip. This in turn distorted the boat neckline. So now it doesn't sit very well. The interesting bit is that the front bodice looks a tad small in the following photos ... so if I'd have gone up a size - the back would have been huge. Now, go back to that measurement chart - my bust and waist was smaller than the 10 - very interesting. I'm not sure if I'll make this again - probably not - I mean, it's sweet, but I have other fish to fry if you know what I mean.....
About 8cm had to be trimmed off the CB seam.

Anyway, so here I am at Christmas Party No 1.

I just realised that not only did I not toile this, but I didn't even look up PR for any reviews ..... I love it when I learn things!!  Happy Sunday everyone!

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Just a tad proud ....

One minute you're grinning from ear to ear with a new babe in arms and the next minute you're sewing a suit for his Year 10 Graduation ....
1994 - and I made that dressing gown!!!

Pattern:  Burda 8186
Sizing: From direct measurements he was a 36 only for the waist, and 34 for everything else. I cut a 36 for the pants and a 34 for the vest and jacket. I did a tissue fit and added 5cm in length for the sleeves of the jacket. The pants were a bit tight at the waist so I had to take off the waist band and take out side seams and CB seam - add a little extension to the waist band at CB - and all was good elsewhere.

Fabric:  Vest fabric from Tessuti's Sydney - textured polyester - lined with Habotai Silk from Gorgeous Fabrics. Pants and Jacket fabric wool plus Lycra from The Fabric Store Sydney - very fine and lightweight - in hindsight I would have preferred a wool without the Lycra - I think that the Lycra limited the pressing and steaming qualities that wool has on it's own. For the jacket I block fused the following pieces:
  • Front
  • Side Front
  • Front Facing
  • Back Neck Facing
  • Under Collar
  • Collar stand
  • Top Collar Pocket welts and flaps
  • I also fused interfacing on the hem allowance of the the back, side back and sleeve.
I cut the under collar on the bias ( not suggested by the pattern) and it all fitted very well.
Jacket was lined with Silk Satin.

Instructions: The instructions are very brief - but adequate if you've made a jacket previously.

Some details:
 This is a bobbin case for my Bernina machine - the hole in the finger is for the bobbin thread when you're sewing buttonholes.
 Corded buttonholes - the cord (Perle 8 Crochet Cotton) is placed at the back of the foot and then travels under the foot to be secured at the front of the foot while the machine stitches over the top of it.
 Then you need to pull through the threads and tie off before snipping.
 I used this shiny thread on top.

Preparation for welt pockets:
Key hole Buttonholes on jacket:
I used 2 strands of Rasant thread and a size 100 needle.
And no, I didn't make the shirt or the tie! This was a time consuming and high stakes project to tackle, but I enjoyed it very much because it was an important project for an important person!!! I think it's a very good pattern - each items fits well - and I'm glad I added that extra length to the jacket sleeves.

Time now for a little observation of the changing seasons ....

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Improvisational Screen Printing

Nothing like a bit of fabric colouration to put a spark in the weekend.I did a workshop with Marie Therese Wisniowski organised by Newcastle Printmakers at Studio 48 New Lambton.

A few silk worms munching away quietly as we worked.

Low relief objects and crayons.

Cold Wax Resist

It was great to learn some new techniques and to have a play with colours - lots more experimentation required .....

And just to finish with a few snaps from the Blacksmiths Primary School Market Night - a lovely night - I did a bit a sewing, but mostly talking which is just as nice!