Tuesday, November 30, 2010

McCalls 9233 Pants

Now for the pants from my 4 day Palmer Pletsch workshop in Sydney 2 weeks ago. We tried on the gingham "shells" that were made up to determine our size - I was a 14. Then I used McCalls 9233 to make the slim fit straight leg pants. I was tissue fittted - and adjustments included lowering the crotch curve and folding in the centre back fold (there are adjustment lines printed on the pattern pieces). I then cut them out of some black mercerised stretch drill (2% Lycra). And therein lie the problems. Over the course of the workshop we determined that stretch wovens are problematic - oh yeah - just as everyone knows and as everyone blogs about!

 My pants were huge on me - even though the tissue fit was snug. So I ended up taking just about every seam and dart in again, re doing the waistband - dropping the waist down about 5 cm - now the side seams are very much off and the back is overly "pulled in" the waistband gapes at the back .... but, all is not lost, they are wearable and lessons were learnt - stretch wovens are a beast unto themselves! I could have gone down 2 sizes for this fabric!!

I also ended up making them 3/4 instead of full length ....

Miss Maggie is very interested with that thing in my hand ...
So, here are the 2nd pants - the pleated trouser. I was at first reluctant to make them - not terribly fashionable - but in the end I was pleased I did..... I used a grey wool - lovely and soft from Chic Fabrique.
Again, the crotch was lowered and the centre fold taken out of the back - there are 2.5cm seam allowances on these pants - to allow for fitting - and that was great because I had to taper the side seams for my hips.
I really only tucked my top in for the photos - but I quite like it. We also tied a piece of elastic around our waist to draw on a true waist line - I was surprised how much most of us cut of the top of our pants! And most of us added to the length as well.
The pockets had a pocket stay cut out in lining fabric and the waistband was the usual rectangle - but they advise how to ease it on using the side seams and other landmarks as markers. I think these will be well worn next winter.


  1. Ah Miss Maggie knows about treats LOL.

    Your pants are looking good.

    I agree stretch wovens are not on my list for sewing pants/shorts/trousers, they just are too frustrating.

  2. I was so disappointed to miss this workshop. When I finally got around to looking up Sue's website, it was underway. I hope to go the next tailoring workshop.

  3. Your pants look great, both pairs. A pity about all the extra seaming you had to do on the black pair but they will be so useful. Did they mention at the workshop where you can buy the grid board in Australia? I'm in SA and can't find any, anywhere!

  4. Hi Sue - thanks for your comment - grid board - do you mean the cardboard tables ? They are from Baraque: http://www.foldawaycuttingtable.com/

  5. Thanks very much for that link! The fold-away table is an excellent idea but it's the top part I'm really interested in, I would like to sit a piece with the grid markings on top of my table that I can pin into when doing the P/P FFRP tissue adjustments.

  6. Well-fitting trousers, what a treat! I love the grey pair, just what I would need. And the black ones are going to be a staple; in the end all that work will be worth it I'm sure.

  7. Sue - have you tried Spotlight? - or maybe ring Simplicity in Sydney and see if there is a stockist near you: 9774 5855.

  8. The fit of both these pants are
    perfect on you :)

  9. Oh how nice to have two lovely pairs of well-fitting pants. You did a beautiful job.

  10. These pants fit you beautifully! I particularly love the pleated trousers, the second pair. If I may say so, (as nicely and as respectfully as possible) your rear looks GREAT in these!

  11. I agree, beautifully fitted trousers. The grey pair look so sleek and expensive.


Please leave a comment .... thankyou!

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.