Sunday, March 4, 2012

Burda Dress 104 5/08

 I'm probably the last person in the universe to get around to this dress pattern. 2008!! Anyway, this dress gets the thumbs up on Pattern Review, and from me too .....
 A stretch knit dress with a front detail secured by a buckle.
 I used a Martin & Savage fabric, 95% polyester & 5% lycra - super soft, it never ceases to amaze me how synthetic fibres can be made to feel "non synthetic" - this fabric is a perfect example. I lined the dress with a knit lining - very lightweight. The dress has a fairly full front and back neck facing - so it was very easy to cut a lining and attach it to the bottom of the facing. I made size 38 - no adjustments except for about 5cm extra in length - as a few others did too.
 I left out the zipper, as did the rest of the sewing world. Just a note on using a twin needle on knits - always lower the top and bobbin tension - the stitch on the left is normal tension and the one on the right has lowered tension. It makes that ridge disappear.

And so .... an update on my TAFE adventure thus far ..... having spent 4 hours finishing my drawing homework today, I'm probably not in the best frame of mind to give an accurate report .....we've been doing those technical drawings of flat garment and garment components- Front and Back views  - like the line drawings above .... but by hand!!! We move on to computer drawings later, but I guess we have to start with an appreciation of how they must be drawn .... very tedious indeed!
Apart from that, all is good!! The purple book above is our main text - Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women. We've used direct measurments to draw the Easy Fit Jersey Bodice Block and Sleeve, and last week we adapted it to a Magyar Block and we cut out some knit wintery fabric (it was a 35 degree day - phew!!), so that's all interesting and quite straight forward - you can even use all of your own direct measurements to get a customised fit - so I'm sure I'll have a go at that myself if we don't do it in class.

On the sewing front, we use a machine similar to the one pictured - a Siruba - fast, automatic back tack, automatically trims the thread and raises the presser foot when you're finished, even though it's fast, it's easy to go very slow as well, so not scary at all! I've made two basic tote bags, done basic machine samples, and we made a Child's Size 8 pair of boxer shorts with a patch pocket and in seam pockets. Next week we can modify the pattern to our own design and bring in our own fabric to make some cute Peter Alexander style boxers (for my teenage daughter) - so that will be fun.

Everything we do, has to be accurate - we work off Specification sheets - so all the measurements and seam allowances have to be spot on - otherwise it won't pass the Quality Check!!!

In the Pattern Modification class, we've done some samples of adding yokes, gathering and pleats to a basic bodice block - the interesting thing here is that designers obtain their fabric FIRST, then pattern make from that point ... because the patterns have to reflect the nature of the fabric eg. gathers in different weights of fabric require differing amounts of "extra" fabric to achieve the desired gathered look!

We've also adapted a bodice block for a scoop neck and facing - making the adjustment for a gape dart. So there you have it..... and a big thanks to all those who left encouraging comments on my last post .... I am very lucky to have the opportunity to dive deeper into an area that I love! So onward and upward and I hope your week is fruitful!


  1. Oh gosh - so very technical. My brain would hurt at the end of every class but it sounds really rewarding to be able to develop that depth of knowledge.
    What kind of lining did you use for the knit? What it another light weight knit fabric or something more specific?

  2. So it is confirmed, fabric first, pattern later! :)

  3. Great dress - absolutely love your fabric. Sounds like classes are going well.

  4. I love your fabric choice. It looks very nice on you. Great twin needle tip. I wished I'd known about that last week.

  5. Sue Ellen, the lining I used was from either Gorgeous Fabrics or Emma One Sock - and I recall that it is actually listed as a knit lining. In fact I love it so much, I'll need to get more. It's a lightweight - probably nylon meshy like fabric - and it stops the cling factor _ which of course clings to the bits you'd rather not have it cling to!!! It has a smooth handle, you wouldn't want something that was soft of had a surface feel - then they would just bunch up against each other - hope that makes sense!

  6. Beautiful dress and good idea on lining it, might have to investigate some knit lining.

    I missed your last post and your course sounds amazing and challenging and glad you are enjoying it even with the drawing challenges (I really wouldn't want to go there).

  7. Your not you know. I was only looking at it the other day thinking winter dress with sleeves. Your fabric is interesting.

  8. Oops I meant you're not your!

  9. Really your dress looks very beautiful.

  10. Great job! I love the tie-dye fabric.

  11. Very nice. I love the dress and it looks good on you. Pretty...


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