Saturday, June 26, 2010

YAY!! Jalie Jeans #1 and other stuff

Ok, here is my Jalie Jeans story.
These are my toile jeans. I don't usually make a toile of anything, but after pouring through the pages and pages of reviews, I was happy to go the extra mile. And even though these are a toile - I made them with the intention of going through all the details - so I guess they are a Clayton's toile ... or maybe just a normal sewing project .... whatever ...!
Stretch denim from Chic Fabrique (I think - could be wrong - I've been stashing stretch denim for a while - anyway - it may have also come from Cabramatta ...) I chose this denim as my least favourite ..
Size X (I love lettered pattern sizes!) - Regular Rise (there is a Low Rise option) I have 108cm hips and 80 cm waist - there is a large gradient difference between my waist and hips - so I expected some gaposis. I tissue fitted the pattern - and since the pattern has negative ease, there was no way that the tissue pattern would even have come close to looking like it would fit - but regardless, I soldiered on.
So, when it came to stitching the side seams, I machine basted them wrong sides together, so that I could get a good look at how they were progressing.
And here is the gaposis of the century - I could park a small car in that gap!
So here are my fingers holding out the gap at the back - note how well I am sucking all of the excesses in - I'm quite proud of that!
Here's the front - that's a mismatched (in colour) zipper protruding at the front - and look, I forgot to suck in!! But the point is, that there's alot of room at the waist. But, it is perfect at the hips and legs - that's good! In fact, the pattern has 1cm seam allowances - I did a 1.5cm seam allowance from the widest part of the hips to the waist.
Now, for a few little details - an edge stitch foot is great for perfect alignment - here I am topstitching the belt loops. There is lots and lots and lots of topstitching with this project.
I had a few topstitching and thicker machine threads - but none really matched this charcoal denim colour - so I went for 2 top threads. I didn't do any twin needling - as I would have needed 4 threads on top - next time I will use a twin needle and a Gutermann Upholstery Extra thread.
I used these Jean buttons - purchased on eBay.

The buttonhole on the right was corded - I did the keyhole variety, but on the actual jeans, there was too much bulk for the automatic buttonhole foot to deal with, so I had to swap to the manual buttonhole foot - and thus I couldn't put the cording in - hmmm
Gotta love these! Rivets! Yay! Also from eBay. They are easy to insert. There are plenty of how tos on the web.
I used this to make the holes for the rivets.

Here are the backs of the rivets - also note the pocket lining - nice soft quilting cotton.
Rather than trust myself to draw on the pocket design, I traced my RTW jean pocket design onto template plastic - and WOW - I am becoming very perceptive at checking out jean pocket designs - very interesting!
Here's that knock your eye out zip - but hey it's beautifully inserted following Sandra Betzina's video. And the colour is totally hidden from public view - assuming I won't undress myself in public - safe on that front!
Now, this is a handy little helper ...
I used it to sew the hem from the right side. That's it sitting on the right - it is magnetised.
And here is the underside of the hem.
Now, for the finished product. So, to fix the gaposis - I followed Emilee's Gaposis Fix - that is, putting darts into the yoke - I did 2 x 1.5cm darts in each side, and then sewed an angled CB seam of the waistband. Well, that was a bit too much - the waistband is too tight - I will need to work on getting a better darted yoke for the next pair - I will dart the pattern not the pants. But, honestly, I am totally happy with the rest - yes very very happy - it's exciting to accomplish something different!
You can see how the yoke is too small for the main back piece.
These are the darts and the resulting puckering underneath.
I think I'll check out the pattern size that fits my waist better - and do some tapering - anyway, I'm happy to play with this further. Like every other sewist on the planet, I highly recommend this pattern - instructions are great - the design is superb - the details are perfect - it's good to have a couple of RTW jeans to compare while you sew. Which reminds me, I added a coin pocket - like everyone else on this planet ... I have now worn these jeans a couple of times - and even though the waistband is a little tight - they are totally comfortable - these jeans need to be snug - just allow the spandex to do it's stuff.
Now, my photographer has omitted my head from all of these shots, the previous shots were done with my bra only on top - so I probably yelled at her (my 13 yo Sweet Pea) to not worry about my head ... and so she didn't!!! Anyway, here is a linen blouse in McCalls 5630 - the pattern was tissue fitted at the workshop I mentioned previously. I did the mandarin collar.
I must say, I have a love / hate relationship with Linen. It's lovely to wear, but I really don't like sewing with it - well, not a tailored style of shirt - it has too much give and movement - anyway, I will make this shirt again in another fabric.
Finally, I knitted this Mimku Shawl. I purchased the kit earlier this year at the Newcastle Stitches and Craft Show from Morris & Sons in Noro Wool.
The colours are luscious, great little pattern - super easy - I especially like the effect of changing to smaller needles at the top of the shawl.

And sew it seams that there will be more Jalie Jeans on the horizon .....


  1. My lordy - that's a mighty fancy toile!! I reckon you'll be whizzing those jeans out for yourself now you have the fit sussed out. Fantastic!

  2. Your attention to detail is amazing!! Love all the tip stitching and rivets. How wonderful to make your own jeans and get the perfect fit:)

  3. It's a perfect toile! Great jeans. I do have the pattern but still are reluctant to make it. It's inspiring to see another version with such good results.

  4. The jeans fit perfectly.. during Philly PR I purchased a magnetic seam guide, totally love it. That is such a lovely shawl and I am sure supremely soft.

  5. Love your jeans and thank you for all the tips, need to find that magnetic seam guide.

    My denim is in the washing machine right now for its first of three hot wash/clothes dryer turns for the day.

  6. Thanks Sharon

    Ann from Gorgeous Fabrics also suggests laying stretch wovens out on the cutting table for 24 hours before cutting – I’m intrigued by that one! So my next lot of denim is currently relaxing as we speak!!! I also forgot to mention that I cut my waistband on the straight grain – because I didn’t have enough fabric for the bias cut as suggested. Most people don’t cut theirs on the bias either – I really don’t think it’s necessary.

  7. You have been busy! I love the jeans. All my "jeans" have darts, I tried without, and the denim could not cope with the gradient between waist and hips. I will be very interested to see your dartless version.
    The blouse and the shawl are terrific too. Personally I love linen, so classic.

  8. Might come up for a lesson when I finally get around to cutting and sewing my white Jalie jeans for spring. Well done, they look great.

  9. Hi there,
    Like your Mimku shawl.
    Have just finished it!
    I couldn't find the wool that they suggested.


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