Sunday, August 7, 2011

My First Ever Colette ... Negroni Men's Shirt

Well, I have actually made the Colette Mini Bloomers previously, but that was a free download pattern. So this is my first proper Colette pattern. I was very impressed by the presentation of the pattern in it's cute little booklet format with a linen finish on the card - the diagrams and instructions are excellent.





Sewing Notes:

I haven't made a men's shirt for many many years, so for the sizing I just decided to go the XXL - the actual measurements were chest (XL), waist (XXL) and neck (L) - so it was a bit all over the shop - I had a look at one of Shaun's (hubby) ready to wear shirts and it seamed to compare well with the XXL of this pattern.
Now, I haven't actually seen this shirt on - I left instructions for my son to take photos  - and Shaun said he was happy with the fit. The sleeves look pretty big to me - hmmm - maybe I'll make them short next time - not 100% sure if I'd change anything else for another shirt - he does have very broad shoulders so the fit may be fine - from the photos anyway!

FABRIC: Poly Cotton Blend for Spotlight - Vintage look - it said that on the label!! About $4 per metre.

As I sew my projects now, I have started to take notes along the way since I've started writing the Pattern Reviews..... so here are my jottings from along the journey....

- I was surprised that the pattern required 3 metres of fabric.
 - The booklet format of this pattern is lovely.
- I block fused the interfacing - I used a lightweight woven interfacing.
- They have the option of downloading pocket options.
- I used the pocket template hint for pressing the pocket.
- The pattern pieces are very well marked - "first fold" and "second fold" .
- The variable seam allowances are clearly noted and make sense.
- They have an interesting and neat way of sewing on the yoke - no hand stitching - all beautifully explained.
- Great diagrams - overall excellent instructions.
- Stitching the sleeve - I put the sleeve against the feed dogs to ease in the fullness - a little tricky - they have you stitching from the centre to each side - mine had too much ease to work that way.
- The curved flat fell seam of the sleeve was very very very fiddly - I'm not sure I would do that again. It's lovely that all the edges in this shirt are stitched down, but if I made it again, I would probably just overlock the sleeve - unless anyone can enlighten me on a better way to flat fell the seam.
- Hemming the shirt - they didn't fold back the front facing to machine stitch in place, but I did.

Summary -  Totally impressed with this pattern. The design is nice, the fit is good and the instructions were fantastic. It was an enjoyable project to complete. Highly recommend!


7 comments:

  1. Great result, I've been impressed with Colette patterns too.

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  2. I've never used Colette patterns, but they seem very popular. The shirt looks great, but I agree that the sleeves look largish. A little too long and wide at the base perhaps?

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  3. I am very impressed that you are making men's shirts. I am stuck on boxers and tees for my guys! It looks great but the sleeve would be worth modifying next time (or perhaps one size smaller??)

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  4. Your husband's shirt looks great! I've never used Colette patterns either.

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  5. Lucky hubby. I like the Collette patterns that I have used - although the Lady Grey fitting gave me considerable trouble.
    I have a lot of trouble flat felling the shoulder seam too. The David Page Coffin shirtmaking book has you pin at the shoulder point only, and flat fell in two sections - starting from the shoulder each time. This did not help me much, but it possibly does for a more accomplished seamstress (or a flatter curve). Next time I will overlock and topstitch.

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  6. 3m of fabric...that does seem excessive! I think the shirt looks great but agree the sleeves are a bit big. Nice looking fabric.

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  7. How fun to see something for your husband! The shirt looks great. And, while the sleeves do look a bit large, if he likes it, that's all that matters.

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